Potatoes are a versatile and nutritious crop that can be prepared in a variety of ways and provide a good source of carbohydrates, fiber, and vitamins. Growing your own potatoes can also be cost-effective, as they can be stored for a long time and used in a wide range of recipes. Additionally, potatoes can be grown in a variety of settings, from large fields to small containers, making them accessible to many gardeners. Let’s go over everything you need to know, from selecting seed potatoes to harvesting and storing your bounty.

Selecting Seed Potatoes

First things first, you’ll need to choose your seed potatoes. These are potatoes that are specifically grown for planting, and can usually be found at your local garden center or ordered online. Look for seed potatoes that are firm and healthy-looking, with no signs of disease or rot. It’s also a good idea to choose varieties that are suited to your climate and growing conditions. It is not advised to plant regular potatoes sold at the grocery store. Depending on where you live, however, your grocery store may sell potatoes specifically for planting in the spring. My local grocery store has a stand in the produce section every spring with locally grown seed potatoes for sale.

Preparing Potatoes to Plant

About 4 weeks before planting, you’ll want to get them ready by chitting them. Chitting potatoes refers to the process of encouraging the potatoes to sprout before planting. It is thought to encourage earlier and more vigorous growth in the potato plants once they are planted, which can lead to higher yields at harvest time. This is done by placing the seed potatoes in a warm and dark location until they begin to sprout. I like to place them in a paper grocery bag on top of my refrigerator.

Once they sprout, place them in a cooler, bright location. I typically place them on a table by a window. As the potatoes are exposed to light, the light will slow the growth of the sprouts.

You can plant whole potatoes, but I suggest cutting them in half or thirds if there are multiple sprouts. Each piece of potato should be at least 3 inches across and have at least 2 sprouts. Wait to plant a day or so after cutting so the cut side has time to dry out.

Planting Outdoors

Potatoes can be planted outdoors a week or two before your average last frost date. When it’s time to plant your potatoes, choose a sunny spot in your garden with well-draining soil. Dig a trench about 6 inches deep and place your seed potatoes in the trench, spacing them at least 12 inches apart. Plant them with the sprout or “eye” facing up. This is because the sprout is where the new plant will grow from, and planting it facing upwards will help the plant to emerge more easily from the soil.

If the potato has multiple sprouts, it’s usually best to plant it with the largest and strongest sprout facing up. If there are no sprouts, the potato can be planted with any side facing up, and the sprouts will eventually grow toward the surface of the soil.

Cover them with soil and water well. As the plants grow, you’ll want to “hill” them. Do this by mounding soil up around the stems to encourage more tubers to form. I typically do this every other week for the first couple of months.

Potatoes are great candidates for container planting as well! Planting them in containers is a great way to grow potatoes in small spaces or areas with poor soil. To start, choose a container that is at least 12 inches deep and wide, and fill it with a mix of potting soil and compost.

Care

Potatoes require regular watering of one inch per week to ensure healthy growth, especially during hot and dry periods. A balanced fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 10-10-10 is a good choice. I recommend applying a side dressing of nitrogen fertilizer about four to six weeks after planting when the plants are actively growing.

Additionally, potatoes benefit from the application of organic matter, such as compost or manure, which can help improve soil structure and fertility over time. It is important to avoid over-fertilizing, as excessive nitrogen can lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of tuber development.

Pests and Disease

You’ll also want to keep an eye out for common pests such as potato beetles, and aphids. You can use natural pest control methods such as handpicking or organic pesticides. or organic pesticides to keep these problems under control.

Blight and Wilt diseases are the most common for potato plants. Blight will appear as brownish-black lesions on the leaves and stems, and a white mold on the underside of the leaves. Remove any affected leaves and apply an organic fungicide if the disease persists. Wilt disease presents itself as yellowing of the leaves, stunted growth, and wilting leaves. There is no cure for bacterial wilt so unfortunately there is not much you can do. To prevent it, keep the area around the plant clean and practice crop rotation.

Harvesting

Potatoes are ready to harvest when the plants have died back and the leaves have turned yellow. Carefully dig up the tubers, doing your best to not damage the skins. Cure them in a dry, warm, dark place for several days. Curing will toughen their skin and improve their storage life.

Storage and Preservation

Once they are cured, brush off any excess dirt and store them in a cool, dark place such as a basement or root cellar. Cured potatoes can last for several months in a root cellar, provided that the storage conditions are appropriate. The ideal storage conditions are a temperature range of 45-55°F (7-13°C), high humidity, and good ventilation. Under these conditions, they can store for 4-6 months or longer, depending on the variety and the initial quality of the potatoes. It is important to check them periodically for signs of decay or sprouting and to remove any damaged or diseased potatoes to prevent the spread of decay.

Preservation Methods:

• Dehydrating
• Freezing
• Pressure Canning
• Root Cellar